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Phoebe Philo’s Still Got It


The fashion news never stops! Phoebe Philo has just released a new round of clothing and accessories — Edit Two, in her parlance — and the German actress Sandra Hüller, nominated for an Oscar for Anatomy of a Fall and also appearing in Zone of Interest, joins a cast of models for Philo’s latest campaign. According to her London office, 60 new styles will be available in this Edit, spanning four deliveries from today through May. You can expect the widest range of new styles in the current delivery and the next one, the company said. And selected designs from the first Edit will also be available.

Having set down the aesthetic for her label, Philo now builds on her aim to create “a seasonless, continuous body of work.” A telling difference between her designs and those of her peers, who must put on shows and produce multiple collections a year, is that Philo’s somehow feel more essential; she’s giving you ideas that work in a smart modern wardrobe, and at the same time have the sharp edge of fashion without false or jumped up attitude. Every style in her compact arsenal feels considered. And that’s true of the work in this latest round. (People may also notice that, in building out the wardrobe, the prices for seperates are becoming far more varied.)

Photo: Courtesy of Phoebe Philo

I had a peek in her studio last fall and again last month, and I was struck, not for the first time, by how she’s able to make a cool look out of the most obvious or common style. You wonder why someone else hasn’t thought to make a loose-fitting, high-neck top in stretch silk satin. It’s better than a sweater, as offhand as a sweatshirt but fresher, and it may even be a nice alternative to a tailored jacket. The top, with long sleeves and in black, dark khaki or off-white will be in Edit Two. During my first visit to Philo’s studio, I also clocked her version of motocross trousers. In black or dark taupe worsted wool, they are constructed in panels, with top-stitching at the knees, an adjustable pull belt at the elasticated waist, and just enough volume in the legs to make them look elegant. They’re a great addition to Philo’s other new and existing pants styles. They will be available in the current delivery.

Photo: Courtesy of Phoebe Philo

Also worth singling out is a new shrunken bomber in black leather. Philo made a big debut statement with her leather blousons, and with her high-neck coats generally. The neck detail proved influential at the fall ready-to-wear shows. In the current Edit, she’s offering a different proportion: a quite trim bomber, with slightly Dolman sleeves and a plain neckline, that stops at the waist and will be shown on her site with masculine, flat-front trousers. Coming down the pike, to further fill out a wardrobe, are wonderful T-shirts in compact cotton jersey, in cream or washed black, with an oversize fit, wide, elbow-length sleeves, and a Philo twist at the high neck. You’ll just have to wait a bit for yourself.

Photo: Courtesy of Phoebe Philo



Cathy Horyn , 2024-03-07 14:46:35

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